Ryokan Onomichi Nishiyama (Hiroshima)

A stay at Ryokan Onomichi Nishiyama feels like living in a little fishing village in a room furnished with the warmth of ancient wood and surrounded by ageless pines and a lush garden.

The original ryokan, Nishiyama Bekkan, was opened in 1943 and transformed into its current iteration in April 2023. As much as possible has been done to preserve the history of the guesthouse over its decades of existence. Many decor items displayed around the property, such as hanging scrolls, furniture, tea bowls, and utensils, are originals cherished by generations of guests.

The ryokan has 11 rooms - 8 rooms in 6 detached buildings giving guests space and privacy, and 3 in the main building, which are simpler without a private bath but have a refreshing view of Onomichi harbor. Even without a private bath in the room, the ryokan's stone bath and rotemburo can be reserved and enjoyed privately.

Meals are served at the ryokan's restaurant, Yosoro, and are prepared using local ingredients by a chef who has demonstrated his skills at a prestigious grand maison. Dishes are as beautiful as they are delicious, and the serving staff explains them in detail as they are served. The chef enjoys delighting his guests with unusual pairings of flavors and textures, so be prepared for some delicious surprises. After the main course, you can add a dish from the a la carte menu at no charge.

Otani Sanso Bettei Otozure (Yamaguchi), Nagato Yumoto Onsen

Few visitors to Japan have heard of Nagato Yumoto Onsen, but that's likely to change quickly. The oldest onsen hot springs in Yamaguchi Prefecture, the town underwent a considerable renovation in 2020, transforming it into a hot springs destination for domestic tourists and overseas visitors willing to travel off the beaten path. Strolling paths were created with scenic rest areas along the Otozure River that flows through the town. New shops, cafes, and restaurants opened, along with renovations to older establishments, like the 600-year-old ONTO public bath. Many establishments fuse Yamaguchi's traditional arts and crafts with a modern flair, creating a fascinating shopping and eating experience.

But if there is a jewel of Nagato, it would likely be Otani Sanso Bettei Otozure, a boutique ryokan hotel that sets the standard in luxury accommodation. Featured in overseas travel media like Lonely Planet and CNN Travel, Bettei Otozure boasts a clientele that includes A-list celebrities and heads of state, though they coyly demur when it comes to namedropping. And it's no wonder the hotel is popular with this crowd; the facility oozes sophistication and understated beauty.

With just 18 rooms and sprawling common spaces that include a bar, library, fitness gym, and an attached luxury spa, guests never feel like they are sharing the facility with others. The rooms look and feel like luxury apartments, with private onsen baths and some rooms have home theater multimedia systems. Guests can select between teppanyaki or kaiseki haute cuisine prepared on a grill before their eyes by a skilled chef.

With a limited number of rooms and high demand for this level of luxury, it's best to book Bettei Otozure well in advance. However, if you fail to find a date that suits you, the Otani Sanso ryokan is right next door, featuring more availability at a more moderate price point and level of luxury.

Gosho Bessho (Hyogo)

Many visitors to Setouchi know of Arima Onsen in Hyogo Prefecture, one of Japan's oldest and most famous onsen areas. It was a favorite getaway of Toyotomi Hideyoshi, the 16th-century warlord who nearly united Japan but paved the way for the first Edo Shogun Tokugawa Ieyasu to do it a few years later. Toyotomi loved to practice tea ceremony, and the calm beauty of Arima Onsen made it the perfect place for him to enjoy it.

Today's Gosho Bessho is an oasis within an oasis, consisting of spacious detached villas, each with a sauna room and hot spring bath. Consider yourself extremely fortunate if you secure the treehouse villa with the outdoor onsen rotemburo that resembles a crow's nest. With complete privacy and all the comforts you could ever dream of, it takes quite an effort to lure guests out of their rooms.

That job goes to Gosho Bessho's incredible Yamaya Kaiseki cuisine, based on the flavors and ingredients of Meiji Era (late 19th century) Arima local cuisine. Using organic rice and vegetables, Tajima "Kobe beef," and fresh seafood from Akashi Port, the chefs at Gosho Bessho craft unconventional dishes that bring out the seasonal flavors of the ingredients.

It goes without saying that the level of service provided at Gosho Bessho is without peer. Any deliveries made to your room are placed in a "mailbox," so staff doesn't need to intrude on the privacy of your little sanctuary. When I informed the staff that I wouldn't have time for breakfast due to an early departure time, they kindly prepared fresh bread and a piping hot cup of coffee for the road.

A stay at Gosho Bessho may be a once-in-a-lifetime experience for most people, but it's a once-in-a-lifetime experience that shouldn't be passed up.

NIPPONIA Hotel

Ozu Castle Town

(Ehime)

Ehime Prefecture's Ozu Castle made international news as a castle where visitors can stay overnight and be treated like the castle lord. The folks at Nipponia Ozu Castle Town Hotel take this quite literally, as guests can take part in scenes of the 1617 takeover of the castle by Sadayasu Kato, with the guest being appointed lord of the castle by the domain lord himself. The experience includes incredible meals and access to exclusive rooms in the castle, all fit for guests of the highest rank.

But Nipponia also understands not everyone wants or has the budget to stay in a Japanese castle but still wants to savor the experience of the beautiful former castle town of Ozu. To that end, the hotel has renovated 26 historical buildings around Ozu to create 31 hotel rooms and other facilities. Each location retains the authentic atmosphere of its historical roots while being updated with modern conveniences such as plush western-style beds, cypress bathtubs, and heating and cooling systems. There is even a "suite" available, an entire house formerly used as a residence for a lord of the castle. Many locations have views of the castle through their original thick, hand-blown glass windows, so that views of the castle are like peering through an architectural ripple in time.

Each hotel staff member is a concierge with deep knowledge of Ozu's attractions, shops, and restaurants. Guests are given an "Ozu Passport" which they can use to receive gifts from participating vendors as they explore the town. Visiting the castle is a must, as well as the Garyu Sanso Villa, a breathtaking cultural property overlooking the Hiji River. Guided tours can be booked through the hotel for those desiring to learn about Ozu's rich history in depth.

Meals can be taken at the hotel's own Le Un restaurant, which has superb views of Ozu Castle. The French-inspired cuisine is served on Ehime's Tobe tableware, focusing on fresh Setouchi seafood and fish from Ehime's clear rivers. Dinner was perfectly paced, with the staff expertly describing each ingredient and its origins.

"toutou" (Okayama)

The Kurashiki Bikan Historical District bustles with activity during the day, but after dusk, the area becomes as tranquil as a landscape painting, with the boats that transport visitors up and down the canals moored to the docks for the night. "toutou" is a boutique hotel that allows you to enjoy the beautiful stillness of the area at your leisure and enjoy a relaxing night in luxurious accommodations right in the heart of it. "toutou" consists of seven accommodations and two craft galleries spread through several historic buildings in the district. From the outside, you'd probably never know the rooms were there, and that is part of the design, blending seamlessly into their environment.

Once inside, however, you discover the delights of "toutou" in its wholly renovated interiors featuring decor created by local artists and craftspeople. Almost every item, from furnishings to tableware to framed artwork, have been created by local artists. The two galleries serve a dual purpose for the hotel, as reception desks for guests and as galleries where items displayed or used in the rooms can be purchased.

Each room is unique in shape, size, and decor. The Naka no Yado room I stayed in occupies the second floor of the "toutou" folk craft gallery and features elegantly modern tatami floored rooms and traditional Japanese fusuma and shoji screens separating the rooms. The decor follows suit with elegant vases and earthy tableware, yet the room is also equipped with a luxurious bath, two double beds, and a hypermodern Japanese toilet.

Meals are not provided, although "toutou" provides a delicious fruit plate and freshly baked breads if you need some quick energy. The staff can help book reservations at one of the various fine restaurants in the Kurashiki area, including the Michelin-starred Bricole, which is adjacent to one of their facilities.

Hotel Ridge (Tokushima)

Located within the Setonaikai (Seto Inland Sea) National Park, Hotel Ridge is an accommodation where you can savor the atmosphere of Setouchi at a relaxing pace. The hotel sits on about 57 acres of landscaped grounds on a hill overlooking the Inland Sea.

Hotel Ridge was designed for understated luxury. Nine elegantly designed rooms provide guests with space to stretch out and take a break from the hustle of life. Each has a private deck to enjoy the sunny weather and warm sea breeze and a large indoor bath for a relaxing soak. Further relaxation can be had at the onsite spa and esthetic salon, where you can enjoy an onsen hot spring bath with water pumped from 1,500 meters underground or a relaxing massage or facial to boost your physical and mental well-being.

Dinner is served in Banrisou, a building constructed using methods of traditional Japanese architecture. With a dry landscape garden, warm wood and stucco interiors, and shoji screens that let light cast elegant shadows on the walls and floors, the building sets the atmosphere for the coming feast of Japanese kaiseki cuisine. Dinner at Hotel Ridge is designed to be enjoyed with the five senses, colorful dishes of local vegetables, meats, and seafood that fill the room with a delicious aroma before they ever hit your tongue. Each is paired with a regionally produced sake, or, if you prefer, a fine wine.

An alternative to Banrisou is California Table.The meals fuse French cuisine with the playfulness and casualness of California style, using seasonal ingredients found in the Setouchi region. Wine, imported from California's prestigious Ridge Vineyards, is recommended for pairing with the meal.

The Two Maris of Shodoshima Island: Shimayado and Umioto

On the island of Shodoshima, two boutique ryokan inns are renowned for providing the perfect experience for visitors wishing to spend the night on the island. While each provides the same peerless service and relaxing island atmosphere, the two locations couldn't be more different. Shimayado Mari is a ryokan that includes a designated cultural property in "Hishio no Sato," an area with a row of historic soy sauce warehouses. The eight rooms of Shimayado are each renovated spaces of the historical property, retaining their rustic feel while upgraded to a level of luxury you would expect from a fine hotel. Hot spring water is piped into the ryokan for use in the common indoor and outdoor onsen baths and the individual baths in each room.

Dinner is served in the Omoya restaurant, the building that is a national cultural property. It consists of "Soy Sauce Kaiseki," which focuses on one of Shodoshima's most famous products to bring out the natural flavors of the ingredients used in the dishes. If you've never tasted soy sauce aged for years in cedar barrels, prepare to have your mind blown.

Meanwhile, just a short drive away, Umioto Mari sits beside the Seto Inland Sea. This modern and sophisticated space features six rooms, each oriented to have the perfect sea view from their huge windows and private verandas. The facility also features a "Sanpuusha" shop, selling homemade products, handmade noodles, and pickled olives. There are also seasonal tours and workshops offered here.

Dinner at Umioto is served in a villa restaurant offering "Olive Kaiseki," another important product Shodoshima is known for. The subtleness of olive oil allows the regional ingredients' full flavors to shine through, coaxed by additional homemade seasonings and locally brewed soy sauce.

Due to their limited capacities and high demand, you should be prepared to make reservations for the Maris well in advance, but a stay at either of these elite ryokan will be a fond memory of the Setouchi region for the rest of your life.

So don't just settle on any accommodation when you visit Setouchi. With a bounty of luxurious options in unique locations around the region, you're sure to find one to help you create lasting memories of your trip to Japan.

Photographs and text by Todd Fong